Tag Archives: home biocontrol

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Wildflower or weed? Recognizing perennial wildflower seedlings

Woman in a red shirt and green puffy vest plants seeds in a raised bed filled with soil. Orange stakes mark where rows of seeds will be planted.
You can plant seeds of native, perennial wildflowers into well-prepared soil in the fall. But how will you recognize your seedlings in the spring? Photo credit: Jody Benedict, Cornell IPM

So, you planted seeds of native, perennial wildflowers in some well-prepared soil last fall, letting Mother Nature do the seed stratification for you. You even carefully labeled the spot where you planted your seeds. Now seedlings are sprouting…but are they your wildflowers? Or are they weeds?

Last fall, I also planted a bunch of perennial wildflower seeds in some raised beds. Unfortunately, these beds had last been used as a demonstration weed garden. So, I’ve got large deposits in my weed seed bank. Even though I labeled my seeds, it’s taking careful observation to spot the emerging wildflowers. Also, I’m spending a lot of time pulling weeds. I’m sharing what I’m learning to make your wildflower ID easier!

Raised bed filled with smoothed soil and two rows of orange wooden stakes running down the middle of the bed
A labeled orange stake marks the beginning of a row of perennial wildflower seeds planted in November 2024.

A few general tips for wildflower seedling identification

Unless you have been doing years of meticulous weed management, chances are there will be at least a few weeds sprouting amongst your wildflowers. Here are a few general tips to help you distinguish weed from wildflower, no matter what you planted:

  • Know your monocots and dicots. Cotyledons are the very first, often quite simple, leaves to emerge from a seed. Grasses are common monocotyledons (monocots for short) and produce a single, narrow, spikey first leaf. Subsequent (true) leaves will also be narrow and spikey. Many wildflowers (Ohio spiderwort being a notable exception) are dicotyledons, or dicots. The first leaves (cotyledons) of dicots emerge from the seed in a pair. Subsequent leaves may emerge singly or in pairs, but these true leaves are usually wider and less spikey than monocots. For this reason, you may have heard dicots also described as “broadleaves.” If you planted seeds of a dicot (most wildflowers), and you see monocot seedlings, they are probably weeds.
  • Notice patterns. Do you see a similar seedling distributed across an entire garden bed? It’s likely a weed. Is something sprouting only near the stake where you marked wildflower seeds last fall? It’s more likely to be what you planted.
  • When it doubt, watch and see. Weeds usually grow quite a bit faster than your perennial wildflowers. If you aren’t sure if something is a weed or a wildflower, wait a week or so to see how it changes. Cotyledons usually look very different from the true leaves of a plant, and as the seedling grows, it will become easier to identify. For those interested in identifying weeds early, this Weed Seedling Identification Guide from Montana State University has some nice pictures of weeds when they are very small.
Many rosettes of small plants with many oval-shaped leaves growing in front of three different orange wooden stakes, each marking a row where wildflower seeds were planted.
I don’t know what these plants are, but the same kind of seedling is evenly distributed across a space where I planted several different wildflower seeds, and not in rows. It is a weed.

Wildflower seedlings I’ve identified

Some of the following pictures are from the raised beds where I planted seeds last fall. Others are from seeds I stratified and germinated inside.

Butterfly milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa)

The cotyledons of butterfly milkweed are fairly broad and look “fleshier” than most weed seedlings. The true leaves which emerge next are much narrower.

Close-up of seedlings with broad, slightly fleshy cotyledons and narrow true leaves emerging in pairs.
You can start to see the narrower true leaves starting to emerge on these butterfly milkweed seedlings, in contrast to the larger cotyledons.
Larger seedlings with pairs of narrow leaves. Wider cotyledons are still visible at the bottom of the plant.
As the butterfly milkweed seedlings grow, all of their true leaves are narrow and produced in pairs opposite each other.

Hyssop (Agastache nepetoides)

These pictures are of giant yellow hyssop seedlings (Agastache nepetoides), although I suspect that anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) seedlings look similar. True leaves are produced in pairs. At least on the early true leaves, the veins are reddish and slightly recessed, contributing to a slightly “puckered” leaf appearance. Leaf edges are broadly scalloped. Later true leaves will be more arrow-shaped compared to the rounder early true leaves.

Tiny seedlings with pairs of cotyledons and true leaves growing in potting mix. The true leaves have red veins and look slightly puckered.
Especially when they are small, leaves of giant yellow hyssop look a little puckered.
Cluster of small seedlings growing out of potting mix with pairs of round or heart-shaped leaves and scalloped edges.
On older seedlings, the veins of the true leaves are still reddish, but the leaves look less puckered. The edges are scalloped.

Blue false indigo (Baptisia australis)

Blue false indigo is in the same family as peas and beans; a legume. Its seeds are fairly large and its cotyledons are large and fleshy, similar to butterfly milkweed. As the true leaves start to emerge, they will look more like pea leaves.

Seedlings with fleshy cotyledons emerging from soil
Blue false indigo seedlings emerging from soil. The first true leaf is still folded up and you can’t see its shape in this picture.
Several cardboard pots with seedlings that look sort of like peas emerging from them.
As blue false indigo seedlings grow, their first true leaf is broad but thin. As the plant grows, leaves will start to look more like those of peas or clover.

Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea)

Purple coneflower, or echinacea has fairly non-descript cotyledons. Its first true leaf will look more like the leaves of the mature plant; heart- or arrow-shaped and slightly hairy. One true leaf emerges at a time.

Two seedlings emerging from potting mix. One has small cotyledons that are still unfolding. The other has a pair of cotyledons and a single heart-shaped true leaf.
Young purple coneflower seedling.
A small echinacea seedling growing amidst grassy weeds.
Leaves of more mature purple coneflower plants shaped like arrows or elongated hearts with slightly toothed edges.

Wild bergamot (Monarda fistulosa)

Unlike the previous three wildflowers, wild bergamot produces true leaves in pairs, always opposite each other. The early true leaves are heart-shaped. Later true leaves start to become more elongated with toothed edges. The seedlings I’ve spotted have a reddish or purplish tinge around the outer edges of their leaves.

A small seedling with pairs of heart-shaped leaves. Leaf edges have a slightly purple color.
Wild bergamot seedlings produce true leaves in pairs.
Seedling with older pairs of leaves heart-shaped, and newest pair of leaves longer and toothed.
Older true leaves of wild bergamot are more elongated than the early true leaves, and toothed edges start to become more prominent.

Tall white beardtongue (Penstemon digitalis)

Tall white beardtongue seedlings also produce leaves with reddish edges, but both the edges and surface of the leaves are smooth; no tiny hairs. It produces true leaves in opposite pairs like wild bergamot.

Tiny seedlings with opposite pairs of leaves and purplish edges growing in moist potting mix.
Young tall white beardtongue seedlings look similar to wild bergamot seedlings.
Two seedlings with opposite pairs of leaves and purplish and smooth leaf edges.
I’m pretty sure these are tall white beardtongue seedlings, but they’re sprouting in my raised bed (with plenty of weed seeds around), so I’m going to keep watching these.

Blackeyed susans (Rudbeckia hirta)

First, it’s important to note that multiple species in the genus Rudbeckia may be called “blackeyed susan”. Rudbeckia hirta plants have very, very fuzzy leaves, and the first true leaf – a single leaf – is also extremely fuzzy. I’ve started seeds of different varieties of R. hirta, and the coloration of the seedlings is slightly different, as shown in the two pictures below. I haven’t tried growing them from seed, but I suspect that R. fulgida, whose true leaves are much less hairy than R. hirta would also produce less hairy seedlings.

Tiny seedling with a pair of small, round cotyledons and a single very fuzzy and more oblong true leaf. Cotyledons and true leaf are green.
Seedlings of Rudbeckia hirta have extremely fuzzy true leaves.
Tiny seedling with a pair of small, round, red cotyledons and a single very fuzzy and more oblong true leaf with a slightly red edge.
This is a different variety, but still R. hirta. Notice the cotyledons are more red.

 Smooth blue aster (Symphyotrichum laeve)

As the name suggests, smooth blue asters produce leaves with smooth edges, and few (but not quite zero) hairs. The cotyledons are pretty non-descript, and the true leaves – produced one at a time, instead of in pairs – are roughly heart-shaped. I’ve noticed that the newest true leaf emerges curled up length-wise, unrolling as it grows.

Group of seedlings with smooth cotyledons and true leaves.
Smooth blue aster seedlings have smooth, heart-shaped or oblong true leaves.
Close-up of a group of seedlings with smooth leaves. An arrow and text box label an emerging curled leaf.
New true leaves of smooth blue aster emerge rolled up lengthwise.

New York ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis)

So far, the New York ironweed seedlings look non-descript, both when they first germinate, and through at least a couple sets of true leaves. Their true leaves are produced in pairs and their surface is smooth. Older true leaves have subtly toothed edges.

Tiny seedlings emerging from moist potting mix with paired cotyledons and tiny true leaves.
New York ironweed seedlings look fairly non-descript and may be difficult to distinguish from weeds.
Older seedlings growing in cardboard pots with smooth leaf surfaces.
Older New York ironweed seedlings start to produce true leaves with slightly-toothed edges, but the leaf surface is still smooth.

Golden alexanders (Zizia aurea)

Golden alexanders are in the carrot family, along with parsley. Their first true leaves are wide and heart-shaped with very regularly toothed edges, produced one at a time. This is in stark contrast to the cotyledons, which are narrow and might almost be mistaken for grass seedlings at first glance. As the plants grow, true leaves will be made up of three leaflets.

Cardboard pots filled with potting mix, each containing several small seedlings with long, narrow leaves.
Golden alexander seedlings emerge from soil or potting mix with pairs of long, narrow cotyledons.
Seedlings growing in carboard pots filled with potting mix. Both the tooth-edged heart-shaped first true leaf and the long narrow cotyledons are visible.
The first true leaves of golden alexander are heart-shaped single leaflets with very regularly toothed edges, similar to a single parsley leaflet.
Seedling producing compound leaves made of three leaflets.
This golden alexander seedling is a year or two old, and its true leaves are now sets of three leaflets, but each leaflet is still heart-shaped and has toothed edges.

So far, I think this is one of the easiest perennial wildflowers to start from seed. They readily germinate either inside after cold-moist stratification, or if you plant them outside in the fall. Once they start producing true leaves, they are very distinctive and easy to spot amongst weeds in the garden…unless you happened to plant them where a parsley plant went to seed the previous year!

 

Those are the wildflowers I’ve successfully germinated (and recognized) so far! As more (hopefully) sprout, I’ll add pictures and descriptions.

 

 

This post was written by Amara Dunn-Silver, Biocontrol Specialist with the Cornell IPM Program.

This work is supported by the NYS Departments of Environmental Conservation and Agriculture and Markets.

habitat at home

Stratifying perennial wildflower seeds

seeds held in the open palms of a white woman; wildflowers can be seen in the background
Many native perennial wildflower seeds need to experience environmental conditions that break their dormancy before they will germinate. Photo credit: Cornell CALS Communications

Did you miss your opportunity to plant perennial wildflower seeds directly in the ground last fall? Don’t despair!

If you happen to have some bare ground prepared but just didn’t plant the seeds, you could wait until late winter and sprinkle seeds on bare soil. This practice is known as frost seeding and is sometimes used on farms to sow cover crop seed. Cycles of freezing and thawing soil help work the seeds into the ground.

If you don’t have bare ground already prepared, or if starting seeds inside sounds more appealing, you can stratify your seeds inside now. January is a great time to do that, at least if you are living in USDA plant hardiness zone 5 or 6.

What is seed stratification?

Stratification is the process of breaking the dormancy of seeds; signaling that they can “wake up” and be ready to germinate. Seed stratification generally requires exposing the seeds to the right amount of moisture and the right temperature for the right length of time. Some examples include:

  • Hot water soak – Pour hot water over seeds and allow them to soak
  • Cold moist stratification – Mix seeds with sterile sand, vermiculite, or another substance that won’t hold too much moisture (e.g., damp paper towel or coffee filter). Make sure that whatever medium you use is only damp and not too wet. Put the mixture in a plastic bag or closed container in your refrigerator for the required amount of time.

Last spring I described the different types of stratification (and scarification) recommended for some of the perennial wildflowers I’ve been growing in central New York. For many of these species, 30-60 days of cold moist stratification is recommended. So, if you start stratifying your seeds now (late January), they’ll be ready to move to a warm (and often well-lit) spot by the end of March. This will give them 6-8 weeks to germinate and grow before you transplant them outside in the spring.

How do I stratify my seeds?

Cold moist stratification – keeping seeds cool and moist for an extended period – works well for many perennial wildflower seeds. That’s the method I use most often. Sometimes multiple stratification methods will work for the same wildflower species. Don’t be afraid to experiment!

Several containers (plastic and glass jars, paper and plastic envelopes) of seeds and a permanent marker laying on a desktop.
Perennial wildflower seeds I collected last fall. Full disclosure, I don’t know if all these species require stratification to germinate.

 

Cold-stratifying seeds at home can be very simple. I’ve been successful with just some paper towels and Ziploc bags. Don’t forget a permanent marker. Future you will appreciate the time you spent labeling your seeds now! I like to write directly on the paper towel in which I will wrap the seeds and include the date.

Paper towels labeled with names of wildflowers and date next to a permanent marker and a plastic Ziploc bag.
Label the paper towels you will use for cold moist stratification. I recommend including the plant species and date.

 

Get the labeled paper towels wet, then squeeze all the excess water out. You want them to be damp but not dripping. Sprinkle seeds into the middle of the paper towel, then wrap the seeds up.

Several damp paper towels on a countertop, each with a small pile of seeds in the middle
Sprinkle perennial wildflower seeds into the middle of each labeled, damp paper towel.

 

Two damp paper towels in different stages of being folded around the seeds
Fold the damp paper towel around the seeds.

 

If the paper towels are folded so that seeds won’t fall out, you can put multiple “packets” of damp paper towels in the same sealable plastic bag. You could also re-use a plastic container. The goal is to seal the moisture in so that the seeds don’t dry out.

Six folded paper towels, each labeled with the name of a different wildflower and a date.
Seeds neatly wrapped in dated, damp paper towels and ready to spend some time in the refrigerator.

 

Now put your bag or container of seeds in your refrigerator. Write a note on your calendar or set a reminder on a digital device to pull the seeds out in 30-60 days, depending on the species. See last spring’s blog post to learn how long to keep different wildflower seeds in the cold before you try to germinate them.

Plastic Ziploc bag filled with folded paper towel packets of seeds on a refrigerator shelf
If you share your refrigerator with family, friends, or co-workers, make sure to label your plastic bag or let them know what you’re up to so that your seeds aren’t accidentally thrown away!

 

Germinating your seeds

When it’s time to take your seeds out of the refrigerator, start by preparing moist (but not too wet) potting mix. Pay attention to whether your seeds need light to germinate (should only be pressed into the surface of the potting mix), or can be buried. Just like your annual flower or vegetable seeds, many – but not all – perennial wildflower seeds also appreciate a warm spot (e.g., on a heat mat) when they are germinating.

 

I’ll let you know how my seed stratification worked. Happy seed-starting!

 

 

This post was written by Amara Dunn-Silver, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM Program.

 

This work is supported by NYS Departments of Environmental Conservation and Agriculture and Markets.

habitat at home

Fall is for planting perennial wildflower seeds

Mixture of seeds held in a white woman’s hand. In the background you can see a rain gauge, bare soil, and yellow and pink flowers blooming.
Fall is a great time to plant perennial wildflower seed.

Perhaps you have heard that “fall is for planting.” Did you also know that fall is not just for transplanting perennial plants, it’s also a great time to plant seeds of perennials. Here I will focus on seeds of perennial plants that will provide food (pollen and nectar) and shelter for insect natural enemies and pollinators.

Many people understandably think about spring as the season for seeding. When it comes to vegetables and flowers that grow as annuals in New York State (and other places with similar climates), you’re generally right. (Of course there are exceptions to every rule.) But many perennial wildflower species have adapted to produce seeds that won’t germinate immediately. Certain conditions have to prepare and signal these seeds to germinate. They require stratification prior to germination. If you are trying to germinate these seeds, you can stratify them yourself, or you can let winter cycles of freezing and thawing and fluctuating soil moisture do the work for you by planting perennial wildflower seeds in the fall.

How to sow perennial wildflower seeds in the fall

If you want to try this yourself, now (September) is a good time to prepare soil in a spot where there aren’t a lot of other plants growing already. If you’re trying to convert lawn or a weedy spot into a wildflower planting, it will be easier if you’ve spent at least one growing season managing weeds. But, if the summer flew by and you are just digging up a fresh spot now, don’t despair. You may just have more weeds to deal with in the spring. (More on weeds later!)

Once your soil is ready, put a note on your calendar to remind yourself to plant your seeds a bit later. In central NY, mid-October through December is a good time to sow perennial seeds outside. You want to wait until it’s too cool for the seeds to germinate this fall. Perennial wildflower seeds will germinate and the young plants will establish best if you invest some time in creating a nice seed bed for them first.

  1. Ideally, select a spot where the soil is mostly bare. Pull or dig out remaining weeds. Depending on when you want to plant seeds, you could use cardboard or a tarp to help you kill existing vegetation first. You could also use an herbicide, but make sure you select a product that is labeled as an herbicide. Do NOT mix your own herbicide from ingredients around your home. Always read and follow the label when applying any pesticide, including herbicides.
  2. Loosen the soil. You can use a shovel, rake, digging fork, or other tool, depending on the size of your planting area. You want the soil to be nice and crumbly and have “nooks” for the seeds to fall in to.
Hand fork resting on freshly-weeded bare soil next to a patch of weeds
Perennial wildflower seeds benefit from soil preparation. If possible, pick a spot where few weeds or other vegetation are growing. Remove whatever vegetation is there to leave bare soil.

If you prepare your soil now (late September), make sure you check it just before you are ready to plant your seeds. Repeat step 2 if necessary to provide your seeds with a nice seed bed. And remove any weeds that may have sprouted!

  1. Between mid-October and December (in central NY), scatter the seed on the soil. If you are using a mixture of wildflower seeds, follow the instructions that came with them to spread the seeds at the correct density. If you are just planting a few seeds, you might sprinkle them in rows so they will be easier for you to spot when they start germinating.
  2. Gently mix the seeds into the soil, but no deeper than ¼ of an inch. Generally, the smaller the seed, the shallower it should be planted. If you have a larger area, a rake is a good tool to use. If you are planting a few seeds per species, you could use a hand rake or even a fork from the kitchen. Get creative!
  3. Press the seeds into the soil. You want the seeds to be pressed tightly against the surrounding soil. You can use your hands, feet, or a roller depending on the area you are planting.
  4. Label your seeds. Make sure you know where to look for your seedlings in the spring! Add some markers to remind you where to look.
A rectangular patch of bare soil surrounded by grass with footprint marks in rows
You can use your feet to stomp your seeds into the soil ensuring good seed to soil contact.

In Spring 2025 I will share some tips and pictures to help you recognize your seedlings as they start to germinate (amongst the inevitable weeds that will be there, too).

A few words on weeds

Unless you have spent literally years depleting the soil of weed seeds, it is inevitable that there will be some weeds germinating with your perennial wildflower seeds in the spring. If you are planting a larger area with a seed mix and planning to manage (annual) weeds with mowing, this is not such a problem. You will be mowing the area for the first few years to prevent annual weeds from producing seed and effectively reducing the weed seed bank. Like other perennials, your wildflowers will survive the mowing just fine.

If you are planting just a few seeds of each species and carefully marking their location, this will help you know where to look for germinating perennials in the spring. Planting in rows (or some other pattern) may also help, but you’ll need to be careful not to disrupt your pattern when you gently work the seeds into the top ¼ inch of soil.

Here is more information about managing weeds when creating habitat for beneficial insects.

Another alternative

To get around some of the above weed challenges, I’m told that the “Winter Sowing Method” developed by Trudi Davidoff works well for native perennial wildflowers. But you should probably delay planting the seeds until November or December if you’re using this method. Essentially, you create a mini greenhouse using potting mix in a repurposed transparent plastic container (like a milk jug) with drainage holes. Leaving the container outside and exposed to rain allows the seeds to experience temperature and moisture fluctuations. Since your seeds are planted in potting mix in a discrete container, you won’t be fighting weed seeds and you’ll know where to look for your seedlings. An episode of the Growing Greener podcast describes how this method is used for native perennials.

 

Check out my full instructions for creating habitat for beneficial insects to learn more about other methods for establishing these plants. And remember that growing perennial wildflowers from seed will take some time. Be patient!

Dark and light purple asters and goldenrod flowers blooming
It will be a few years before your wildflowers look like this, but they are worth the wait!

 

This post was written by Amara Dunn-Silver, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM Program.

This work is supported by NYS Departments of Environmental Conservation and Agriculture and Markets.

Announcements, habitat at home

NYSIPM co-hosts Geneva Grows Native Event August 3, 10, 17, & 24, 2024

White daisies, yellow coreopsis, blue cornflowers, as well as pink and red flowers growing in a bed along a street
One of many flower beds full of native plants in downtown Geneva, NY

For years, the New York State Integrated Pest Management Program (NYSIPM) has been demonstrating how to create habitat for pollinators and insect natural enemies of pests by growing (especially native and perennial) flowers and grasses that feed and shelter these important insects. You may have attended a past Beneficial Insect Habitat Open House at our research field. This year, we’re bringing the conservation biocontrol information and demonstrations to the Geneva lakefront and partnering with the Geneva Business Improvement District, the City of Geneva Green Committee, and other community members to talk about the ways the City of Geneva is using native plants.

 

Clusters of red flowers with yellow centers on plants with feathery leaves (yarrow) growing next to a sidewalk with Seneca Lake in the background
Native plants provide many ecological benefits and make the shores of Seneca Lake even more beautiful.

Native plants are a key component of the green infrastructure the City of Geneva, NY has installed throughout downtown. In addition, numerous volunteers have dedicated countless hours to planting and maintaining native plants along Seneca Lake. The goal is to support native insects, wildlife, and the rest of the ecosystem, reduce water and maintenance needs, increase the ecological resilience of the City, and protect beautiful Seneca Lake.

You have four opportunities to attend this event. Stop by the Geneva Lakefront Gazebo near the Geneva Farmers Market between 8 AM and 1 PM on any of these Saturdays in August:

  • August 3
  • August 10
  • August 17
  • August 24

 

A bumble bee rests under a yellow and red blanketflower. A neighborhood street is in the background.
Just a small spot in your yard can provide beautiful blooms that feed and shelter pollinators and insect natural enemies of pests.

What you can expect:

  • Walking tours of Geneva’s native plantings
  • Ontario County 4-H members showcasing native ‘habitatscaping’ opportunities for families (Aug 17)
  • Practical resources from Cornell and others
  • Great information from local organizations like BluePrint Geneva and community members who have been caring for these plantings
  • Free seeds to help you grow your own native plants

 

Read all the details about this fun event for the whole family, and hope to see you there!

Image of a blackeyed susan flower with a bee on it and text that says 'Geneva Grows Native Join Geneva's native plant and insect journey! Activities for the whole family! Walking tours native plants, Scavenger hunt for beneficial insects, Seed giveaways, Learn to attract beneficial insects to your own yard. August 3, 10, 17, 24, 8 AM - 1 PM Geneva Lakefront Gazebo. New York State Integrated Pest Management Cornell AgriTech New York State Agricultural Experiment Station Geneva Business Improvement District.' There's also a QR code to a website to learn more.
Come join us and bring a friend!

 

This post was written by Amara Dunn-Silver, Biocontrol Specialist and Elizabeth Lamb, Ornamentals IPM Coordinator with the NYSIPM Program.

 

This work is supported by NYS Departments of Environmental Conservation and Agriculture and Markets and a grant from On the Canals.

habitat at home

Growing perennial wildflowers from seed

Pink echinacea, and pale purple wild bergamot flowers in a raised bed
Perennial wildflowers add both beauty and food for beneficial insects to your yard.

Why grow perennial wildflowers?

Native wildflowers feed and shelter beneficial insects that pollinate our plants and help us control pests. Beneficial insects include a diverse collection of pollinators — not just honey bees — as well as natural enemies (flies, wasps, beetles, bugs and other insects that kill pests). While not technically insects, spiders and predatory mites also serve as natural enemies of pests. Cooperating with insect natural enemies for pest control helps us reduce damage from pests while reducing risks to the environment and people from other pest management strategies like pesticides.

The pollen and nectar produced by these native flowers – and many non-native flowers – either directly feed these friendly insects, or feed other insects that are prey for natural enemies. The leaves and stems also provide shelter for beneficial insects year-round. While we’re focusing on flowers today, many grasses also provide this shelter. Beyond all the ecological benefits, native wildflowers are beautiful!

Preparing perennial seeds to germinate

Seeds with spikey tails held in the palm of a white woman’s hand
Growing perennial flowers from seed does take longer, but it can be fun and rewarding!

In this part of the world (now known as upstate New York), seeds from native perennial wildflowers that mature in summer and fall experience a lot of “weathering” between maturation and germination the following spring. This includes cycles of freezing and thawing temperatures as well as varying levels of moisture during the winter. They may even pass through the digestive system of animals. This is why planting perennial wildflower seed in the fall is a great option. You are allowing nature to do the work of preparing the seeds for germination in the spring. If you harvest seeds of native perennial wildflowers and want to start them in the spring with other seeds, you will need to do this work yourself.

Some seeds have very hard seed coats that need to be broken by physical force (for example scratching with sandpaper, a file, or a knife), heat (for example, submerging in boiling water), cold (for example, freezing), or chemicals (like a strong acid). This is called seed scarification. Seeds that require scarification – and those that don’t – may also require stratification, which signals to the seeds that they can “wake up” (called breaking dormancy) and start germinating. Seed stratification generally requires exposing the seeds to the right level of moisture and the right temperature for the right length of time. Some examples include:

  • Hot water soak – Pour hot water over seeds and allow them to soak overnight or for 24 hours
  • Cold moist stratification – Mix seeds with sterile sand, vermiculite, or another substance that won’t hold too much moisture. You could also place seeds between layers of a damp paper towel or coffee filter. Make sure that whatever medium you use is only damp and not too wet. Put the mixture in a plastic bag or closed container in your refrigerator for the required amount of time.

If you buy perennial wildflower seeds, they may have already been stratified. Follow the instructions that come with your seed or reach out to the seller for more information.

Light brown seeds sitting on top of damp potting mix in a plastic container
One way to stratify seeds (prepare them for germination) is to place them in moist potting mix in the refrigerator for several weeks to several months.

Species-specific instructions

Examples of perennial wildflower seeds that benefit from scarification and/or stratification follow. After these seeds are scarified and/or stratified, germination may be improved by putting them in a warm place (but not for all species). Remember that you can always sprinkle seeds on well-prepared, weed-free soil outside in the fall and let the winter do the work for you! Also, your experience germinating these seeds may differ from the recommendations below. There is so much beautiful diversity in these perennial wildflowers!

  • Blue false indigo (Baptisia australis) – First scarify the seeds. Gently rub them between medium-grit sandpaper to scratch the seed coat. Then use the cold moist stratification method, leaving them in the refrigerator for about 10 days.
  • New York Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis) – Use cold moist stratification, keeping seeds chilled for 60 days.
  • Asters (Symphyotrichum spp.) – If you look up how to seed asters, you’ll see different instructions for different species, including seeding them in the spring without stratification and using a 60-day cold stratification period. Amara tried germinating Symphyotrichum oblongifolium (aromatic aster) seed and had better luck with cold moist stratification than seeding without stratification. You might see different results with different species.
  • Milkweed (Asclepias spp.) – Store (well-dried!) seeds in the freezer for several months (e.g., from the time you harvest them in the fall, until you are ready to start them in the spring). Learn more from Petra at Fruition Seeds.
  • Coreopsis (Coreopsis spp.) – Note that some coreopsis species are annuals in upstate NY. Perennial species will likely germinate best with cold moist stratification (30-60 days, depending on species).
  • Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) – These seeds will likely germinate just fine if you plant them in moist soil and provide warmth (e.g., a heat mat) just as you would annual seeds.
  • Blazing star (Liatris spicata) – Moist stratify for 60 days before planting seeds.
  • Beard tongue (Penstemon spp.) – Cold stratify for 30-60 days before planting seeds. Some species may require light for germination. Cover seed of these species with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
  • Mountain mints (Pycnanthemum spp.) – You should be able to germinate seeds without stratification, but they will likely germinate better with light. Cover seed with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
  • Rudbeckia (Rudbeckia spp.) – Different species of Rudbeckia may require different stratification (or none) for seed to germinate. For many species, cold moist stratification for at least 30 days is recommended.
  • Goldenrod (Solidago spp.) – There are many species. Most will likely germinate best if seed is moist stratified for 60 days, and then receive light after seeding. Cover seed with only a very thin layer of potting mix (if any) and provide light when germinating.
  • Spiderwort (Tradescantia ohiensis) – For this species, you are better off direct-seeding in the fall. The recommended cold moist stratification period is 120 days, and these seeds will germinate better in cool soil.
  • Golden alexanders (Zizia aurea) – You may have better luck sowing these seeds outside in the fall than trying to start them inside in the spring. Their leaves are fairly distinctive (like celery) so seedlings are easier to spot outdoors. If you do want to try starting them indoors, use a 60-day cold moist stratification.

For some of the species that require longer stratification, you may be worried that you’re running out of time this spring. Remember that even after you have prepared your seeds to germinate, they will likely need around 6 weeks to germinate and grow big enough to consider transplanting outdoors. Don’t despair! Fall is a great time to transplant perennial wildflowers. And perhaps your heat mats and grow lights (or other seed germination spot) are otherwise occupied starting annual vegetable and herb transplants this spring. If you start stratifying seeds in early May, even those that require 60 days in the fridge will be ready for germination in early July. Then your seedlings will have plenty of time to grow big and strong before fall transplanting. Just be sure to keep them watered.

 

Resources consulted on seed germination:

 

This post was written by Amara Dunn-Silver, Biocontrol Specialist and Elizabeth Lamb, Ornamentals IPM Coordinator with the NYSIPM Program.

This work is supported by NYS Departments of Environmental Conservation and Agriculture and Markets.

habitat at home

Fall is for planting…these resources can help!

A mixture of plant seedlings in plots and trays sitting on a gravel surface
Cooler days and more moisture make fall a less-stressful time for transplanting perennials.

You’ve probably heard that fall is the best time to plant perennials (including seed for perennial wildflowers). Are you planning to start or expand a planting that supports pollinators and natural enemies of pests (beneficial insects) this fall? Trying to decide what to plant? I wanted to make sure you know about some resources from NYSIPM (some of them new this summer) that can help!

Who are you trying to attract?

Red lady beetle with black spots perched on a goldenrod plant
Some lady beetle species weed on pollen, in addition to aphids and other insects.

The good news is that flowers that produce lots of pollen and nectar and provide season-long blooms (usually as part of a mixed planting) will support a diverse group of both natural enemies that eat pests and pollinators. If you want to get a bit more specific than that, you might consider checking out:

  • Natural Enemies and What They Eat in the Field – Targeting a particular pest? This chart can help you determine which natural enemies will help.
  • (New!) Pocket Guide to Beneficial Insects – This guide was created for urban growers in New York City, but fortunately all of the beneficial insects in the Guide can be found throughout NY. It will help you recognize beneficial insects when you see them.

These resources are linked from this page. The NYSIPM website is in the process of migrating, and I’ll update this link once this page moves. You can also read about “friends in the garden” (natural enemies) that you’ll find on the ground and on plants or flying through the air in previous blog posts.

Picking plants

A raised bed containing a variety of different plants (with red, purple, yellow, or pink flowers) and labels naming each plant
Choosing a mixture of flowering plants can provide season-long blooms for beneficial insects.
  • Plants for Natural Enemies (full list) – A very large spreadsheet summarizing data from university research and extension resources; Everything I could find about individual plant species and which insects (especially natural enemies) they support.
  • (New!) Plants for Natural Enemies (2 pg handout) – Much shorter table listing 26 plants (perennials and annuals) that will support natural enemies (and pollinators); Bloom times are for central NY, and may vary in other locations (especially different USDA plant hardiness zones).

These resources are also linked from this page. And I’ve written a few blog posts about choosing plants (here and here).

 

What are you planting this fall?

 

This post was written by Amara Dunn, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM program.

Announcements, Christmas tree establishment IPM, habitat plots

Some great biocontrol events coming up!

Next week is full of great biocontrol events! If you are in the Geneva, NY area, don’t miss out!

Thursday August 11 5:30-7:30 PM

wildflowers growing in a field in the foreground, people standing and talking in the background
Participants enjoying last year’s Habitat for Beneficial Insects Open House.

We are in our 5th year of establishing perennial wildflowers and grasses to support pollinators and natural enemies of pests. Perhaps you’ve been following our progress (although admittedly I owe you all an update post or two). Or maybe you keep up with pictures on my Instagram. Now you can see these plots for yourself at our Habitat for Beneficial Insects Open House!

Come visit us any time between 5:30 and 7:30 PM. This outdoor event is free and no registration is required. Just put this address into your GPS:

1097 County Rd. 4
Geneva, NY 14456

Then look for these signs:

New York State IPM logo next to diagrams of a pink echinacea flower and a green Christmas tree

Funds for this project were provided by NYS Dept of Ag and Markets, the Towards Sustainability Foundation, and the USDA National Institute of Food and Ag.

 

Friday August 12, 5-7:30 PM

Researcher points to labeled rows of Christmas trees growing in a field, while meeting attendees watch
Bryan Brown talking about integrated weed management at last year’s event.

As part of a larger Christmas tree IPM project, we’re looking at using biopesticides applied to Christmas tree roots at planting to protect the young trees from root diseases (especially Phytophthora). We’re having a Field Day so that you can see both acres of Christmas trees we’ve planted and learn about early results from the project.

Please do register for this event using the “Field Day” link above!

Like the Habitat for Beneficial Insect Open House, put this address into your GPS:

1097 County Rd. 4
Geneva, NY 14456

Then look for these signs:

New York State IPM logo next to diagrams of a pink echinacea flower and a green Christmas tree

This work is supported by Agriculture and Food Research Initiative – Foundational and Applied Science Grant no. 2021-68008-34179/project accession no. 1025660  from the USDA National Institute of Food and Agriculture.

 

Saturday August 13, 10 AM – 3 PM

raised bed with wildflowers growing in it
This year we planted two new raised beds with perennials that support beneficial insects.

NYS IPM will be at Cornell AgriTech’s 140th Anniversary Open House talking about how to “feed your insect friends”…by creating excellent habitat for them, of course! This spring we planted two raised beds with a mixture of perennials selected to provide pollen and nectar from spring through fall. Come see how these new plantings are growing, learn more about beneficial insects and how to create your own habitat, and pick up some (temporary) tattoos of pest natural enemies! Then visit the rest of the educational displays at Cornell AgriTech.

Funding for our displays at this event is being provided by Cornell AgriTech and NYS Dept of Environmental Conservation.

Announcements

Include biocontrol in your 2022 garden plans

Graphic of flowering plants and beneficial insects with the words Biological Control: Partners in the Garden March 15 and 16, 2022
Join us for this virtual conference!

I don’t know about you, but I can’t wait to get some seeds into potting mix and some plans for my garden on paper! While you’re planning your garden, why not join NYS IPM for our virtual conference? This year we’re talking about “Biological Control: Partners in the Garden” and we’ve got a great line up of speakers!

  • Carol Glenister form IPM Labs talks about looking for signs that natural enemies (biocontrol agents) are already at work in your garden
  • John Losey from Cornell University talks about everyone’s favorite biocontrol agent – ladybugs
  • NYS IPM staff will talk about biocontrol for weeds (is there any?), conserving our biocontrol partners in the garden, and more!
  • Mary Centrella from the Cornell Pesticide Safety Education Program will talk about proper use of pesticides to protect garden partners
  • Kyle Wickings will talk about using tiny worms (entomopathogenic nematodes) to deal with lawn grubs

The conference will take place the mornings of Tuesday and Wednesday March 15 and 16, with a special interactive workshop being offered (by yours truly) on Tuesday afternoon (1-3 PM). You’ll receive some pre-workshop materials to help you get the most out of the workshop, and leave with a plan to plant flowers that will feed and support natural enemies in your garden.

The conference is just a little more than a week away, so register soon! Pay what you can afford, and please reach out if the registration fee is a barrier. NYS IPM is committed to making this conference (and all of our resources) accessible.

This post was written by Amara Dunn, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM program.

Community IPM, habitat at home, Uncategorized

Permission to procrastinate on some fall yard work

Several maple leaves colored red, orange, yellow, and green laying on sidewalk pavement
Fall leaves are beautiful…but fall garden clean-up isn’t always fun. Maybe skip some of that clean-up this year.

If you have been procrastinating on your fall garden clean-up (like me), I’ve got good news for you! You may want to just erase some of those tasks from your to-do list altogether. And you can do it guilt-free!

As you may recall from my post this spring, a messy garden provides good shelter for friendly insects like pollinators and natural enemies of pests over the winter. Whether it’s leaves on the ground or dead plant stems, it’s not a bad idea to leave at least some debris in your yard and garden. The Xerces Society provides a nice summary of the benefits fallen leaves offer to insects and other creatures. You can read an eloquent description of all the benefits of a messy yard here.

Some pink zinnia flowers growing near stems of perennials that are brown with dry seed heads
As these plants continue to senesce, I will leave the stems in the garden over the winter.

Just to prove I’m putting my money where my mouth is, here are some pictures from my own yard. I’m thinking about cutting down the sunflower stalks and propping them up next to my compost bin in the back yard, just to make things a little tidier in the front yard.

some pink, yellow and orange flowers still blooming among dying plant stems
These sunflowers, cosmos, and zinnia plants are no longer looking so nice. But I will leave many of them in the garden until spring.

I’m going to still take out (and send to my local municipal compost facility) my vegetable plants (tomatoes and peppers). Leaving dead stems from healthy plants in your garden is one thing, but this year’s vegetable plants can harbor next year’s vegetable diseases and insect pests if left over the winter. Disposing of diseased or insect-infested plants away from your garden is just good IPM.

A few more caveats…

First, you should know that ticks complicate the simple advice to “leave the leaves”. If you’ve had problems with ticks in your yard (learn how to monitor for ticks here), be strategic about where you leave things messy, and where you clean them up. For example, consider cleaning up areas where your family and pets spend more time. You should also be careful about where you pile leaves. My co-worker Joellen explains why here. And definitely use other IPM strategies to protect yourself from ticks, regardless of your yard clean-up plans.

Small pile of leaves and dead plant stems next to a white fence
This was the leaf (and other plant debris) pile in my backyard this spring. Piles like this can shelter lots of invertebrates…including ticks.

Second, if you’ve got a garden bed in the front yard that you just can’t stand to leave messy through the winter, it’s ok to clean it up and not feel guilty. Maybe pick another part of your yard that you can leave a bit messy instead. Don’t let the perfect become the enemy of the good.

Happy Fall!

Maple tree with orange and yellow leaves against a bright blue sky

 

This post was written by Amara Dunn, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM program. All images are hers, unless otherwise noted.

This work is supported by:

  • New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets
  • New York State Department of Environmental Conservation
agriculture, habitat at home, home gardens, ornamentals, vegetables

Know your friends…on the ground

Small clump of blue-green grass surrounded by some bare ground and weeds
We may not spend a lot of time looking at the ground, but there are plenty of friendly insects living at the soil surface and taking shelter in plants like this little bluestem grass that don’t produce pollen-rich flowers, but still support beneficial insects.

In August I wrote about some of the friendly insects that might be visiting your garden this summer. I promised to write more about the natural enemies of pests that you might find at ground level. That time has come! Because these insects (and some other arthropods) live at or near the soil surface, you’re much less likely to see them, unless you happen to be cleaning out a garden bed this fall (which is not actually recommended). Also, they may be more active at night. But they are still doing lots of good things in your garden or on your farm, so they’re worth knowing about.

Rove beetles

Black beetle with a long segmented abdomen that protrudes beyond the short wing covers that look like a cape.
Rove beetles have wing covers that are much shorter than the rest of their body. Image courtesy of Joseph Berger, Bugwood.org.

These beetles live in the soil or at the soil surface and they eat lots of different soil invertebrates, including pests like slugs, snails, thrips, and eggs of other insects. They also eat seeds, so they could help reduce your weed seed bank, too. Like other beetles, they have hard covers over their wings called elytra. Because these covers are much shorter than their bodies, I think it makes them look like they are wearing little capes.

 

Carabid beetles

Black beetle crawling on the ground
Ground beetles may not look very exciting, but they’re great predators to have in fields and yards. Image courtesy of Mary C Legg, Bugwood.org.

Also called ground beetles, this large group of insects mostly live on the ground, and tend to have prominent jaws and move very fast. Their speed makes them great predators of many insects, as well as snails and slugs. Depending on the species, they may also eat seeds. They like to spend the winter in sheltered places including perennial grasses that grow in clumps. In the spring, they can travel almost 200 feet from these grassy shelters (Landis et al. 2000. Annual Review of Entomology 45:175-201). They come in different sizes, but tend to be darker colored.

On the left a black ground beetle with large jaws, and on the right a ground beetle with large jaws that is brown on top of its body and iridescent green on the underside of its body
Just a few more examples of ground beetles, because they’re so cool!

Centipedes

brown centipede with one pair of legs per body segment
Centipedes may not be so pretty to look at, but they’re good predators to have around. Image courtesy of Joseph Berger, Bugwood.org.

They may not look as friendly as lady beetles, but centipedes are also generalist predators that eat lots of invertebrates (including pests) in the soil. In case you were wondering, the difference between a centipede and a millipede is that centipedes have only two legs (one pair) on each segment of their body, while millipedes have four legs (two pairs) per body segment. But they can move pretty quickly, so it’s understandable if you don’t have time to count.

Spiders and harvestmen

From left to right – black and yellow spider, cream-colored spider on a red flower eating a bee, brown daddy long legs on green foliage.
These are just a few of the eight-legged friends you might find in your garden or fields. Some species you’re more likely to find on plants, and others spend more time on the ground.

I wrote about spiders in my previous post, but many species live on or near the ground. Both are good predators, and friends you’d like to have in your fields or garden. Technically, harvestmen (also called daddy long legs) are not spiders, but they do have eight legs. Because they don’t have an obvious “waist” they appear as though their head and body are a single “blob”.

Fireflies

Adult firefly, mostly black with some orange markings
Adult fireflies are more easily recognizable, even when they aren’t lit up. Image courtesy of Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org.

Yes, you read that correctly. When they are immature, fireflies (or lightening bugs, depending on where you grew up) look a bit more like worms than beetles (which is what they actually are). They live on the ground (especially in places with more moisture) and feed on invertebrates with soft bodies, including both snails and insects. Although we tend to notice them when they are flying, adult fireflies (depending on the species) also spend plenty of time on the ground, and may or may not be predators. The Xerces Society has some really good information about fireflies and their conservation.

immature firefly with distinct body segments. Looks sort of like an armored worm, but with six legs
Immature fireflies may not be so familiar, but are good “friends” because they eat soft-bodied invertebrates, including pests. Image courtesy of Gerald J. Lenhard, Louisiana State University, Bugwood.org.

So remember, not everything that creeps or crawls through your fields or garden is a problem. There are lots of friendly insects (and other arthropods) that can help you with pest control. Take a closer look and you might be surprised!

 

This post was written by Amara Dunn, Biocontrol Specialist with the NYSIPM program. All images are hers, unless otherwise noted.

This work is supported by:

  • New York State Department of Agriculture and Markets
  • New York State Department of Environmental Conservation
  • The Towards Sustainability Foundation